More than half of new restaurants fail in their first year, and even successful family-owned eateries sometimes struggle to survive the transition from one generation to the next. Fortunately for Ayara Thai founders Andy and Anna Asapahu, not one but two daughters are committed to not only staying in the family business, but pushing the Westchester beacon of Thai cuisine to even greater heights.
This month, Ayara Thai is celebrating its two decades of operation with a special 20th anniversary brunch on August 17 and 18. Prix fixe menu highlights include Kanom Jeab Thai-Chinese crab, shrimp and chicken dumplings, stewed beef soup, fried chicken with a pandan mochi waffle, and a Kanom Krok coconut pancake blini board including caviar, smoked salmon and corn.
“Celebrating 20 years of running our family-owned and operated restaurant feels incredibly rewarding, yet emotional,” said co-owner and head chef Vanda Asapahu. “It’s a testament to years of hard work, dedication, and the ability to overcome countless challenges. It’s a moment of pride, reflecting on our growth, lessons, and success, and the relationships built with customers, staff, and the community. It’s also humbling, recognizing the support and loyalty that have been essential to our journey. Overall, it’s a time of joy, gratitude, and renewed passion for the future.”
“The menu reflects the restaurant’s signature blend of traditional Thai flavors and growing up Thai American Angeleno,” Vanda continues. “The anniversary brunch menu reflects the scope of our cuisine, our identity, and teases the potential of what we may offer in the future.”
Her father, Andy Asapahu, obtained his culinary acumen from his mother as he was growing up in a Thai-Chinese community in Thailand’s Samsen District along the banks of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River. Her mother, Anna Asapahu, grew up in the northern Thailand city of Lampang, typically cooking with locally sourced produce, some of which was grown at home.
Vanda soaked up those traditions when she lived and worked in Thailand for four years, eating her way through the streets, countryside, and the dinner tables of relatives for inspiration. Her sister, Cathy Asapahu, studied and worked at MICHELIN-Star restaurants in New York and France before returning to Ayara, where she integrates French and Thai techniques in pastries. Currently, a picture-perfect chocolate cherry tart featuring milk
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chocolate cream, devil’s food cake, market cherry jam, whipped coconut, makrut lime and just the right amount of sweetness, shines on the menu.
“That is our privilege, that we are able to explore things and do this sort of interpretive dance with classical and non-classic dishes,” Cathy said.
Their innovation and exceptional dining experience earned them a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2019.
Both women grew up in the restaurant, often doing homework at back tables in between assisting and learning from their parents.
Neither sister planned to go into the family business initially, but after college and briefly pursuing other careers, they returned to Ayara Thai. Vanda, now 42, and Cathy, 31, share their parents’ love of cooking and looked forward to taking over the reins when Andy and Anna came as close as they will ever get to retiring. Anna, who staff and guests affectionately call “Mama,” still helms the kitchen, and Andy pops in every now and then to help out and opine on how things are going.
“Ayara is their fourth child. There are three of us, but Ayara is the fourth, and probably the favorite,” Vanda quipped.
The family’s only son, Peter Asapahu, is a PGA Golf Pro, but he lends a hand, occasionally, for events and busier periods.
The Asapahu sisters have enjoyed the freedom to experiment and take not only the restaurant’s cuisine but its business operations in new directions as needed. The restaurant is adding a full bar and charcoal grill next year, for instance. Last month, a collaboration with Yakitoriguy was a hit with foodies eager to get their hands on Thai/Japanese-inspired skewers and a special fusion menu.
“People often ask us why we have so many events, collaborations, and special dinners,” said Vanda. “To be very honest, it breaks up the monotony of the regular routine, injecting new energy and passion into daily operation.”
Menu planning and food preparation is the fun part, Vanda said. It’s the business side that, for her, presents the greatest challenge. Even before the pandemic, Ayara had to navigate red tape, construction permits, inflation, a labor shortage, and ever-changing local and state laws, as well as grapple with parking issues, as the Westchester area’s density continues to grow.
The restaurant was nimble during the COVID-19 lockdown, changing its meal service hours and beefing up its ability to respond to take-out orders. The restaurant is still super popular with the take-out crowd who can enjoy their meal on the outdoor patio, and is also open for a sit-down dinner service from 5 to 9 p.m.
Ayara Thai is “a reflection of perseverance, hope, and constant gastronomic exploration,” Vanda said.
If running one of Westchester’s most beloved restaurants wasn’t enough, in between thinking up exciting collaborations and special dining menus, Vanda is deeply involved in community and industry groups. This spring, she traveled to Sacramento to speak before state officials on behalf of the Independent Hospitality Coalition. Additionally, she was chosen for the prestigious James Beard Foundation’s Women’s Entrepreneurial Leadership Program, regularly attends Neighborhood Council of Westchester/Playa meetings and serves on the board of the Westchester Parking Association.
The family has a deep loyalty to the region because the Asapahu daughters grew up down the street from the restaurant.
“My dad insisted on putting Westchester on our business cards, not just Los Angeles,” Vanda said. “It confuses the post office, but we do it anyway.”
The strong connection to both Westchester and Thailand is why fusion elements permeate Ayara’s menu, said Vanda.
“It’s really a reflection of our identity,” she says.
Want to celebrate Ayara’s anniversary with an unforgettable brunch experience?
Reservations are required and can be made on OpenTable Experiences. Admission is $195 for a party of two, or $375 for a party of four. Ayara is located at 6245 W. 87th St. in Westchester.
Story by Courtenay Edelhart. Photos by Robert Higgins. Brunch photos courtesy of @lumierelosangeles.