In the active, beachside community of Playa del Rey, Cantalini’s Salerno Beach stands as an inviting monument to history, family and home-cooked Italian food. Lisa Schwab (or as her family would call her Lisetta Maria), the big-hearted community heroine behind the beloved Italian eatery, shares her family story that led to the restaurant we’ve loved for two-and-a-half decades.
A California native who spent her early years in Hawthorne, Lisa was raised by her Italian grandparents. Her grandmother, Anna Cantalini, the restaurant’s namesake, originally came from the mountainous Abruzzi region of central Italy and showered Lisa with love and warmth, not to mention the best home-cooked meals a kid could ask for.
“I was fortunate to be raised by my grandparents,” says Lisa. “My grandmother taught me so much—not just about cooking, but about the importance of family and old-school values.”
Lisa fondly recalls standing on a stool in the kitchen as a child, closing half-moon ravioli with a fork.
“At three or four years old, that was my job,” she says.
Her grandmother guided her through the art of handmade pasta, including long noodles they would lay out on towels on the bed to dry.
Those early lessons stayed with her, and would eventually become the foundation of Cantalini’s menu. The ravioli, like the ones filled with braised short rib and ricotta or spinach and cheese, are a delicious homage to Nonna Anna’s recipes and traditions.
Before becoming a restaurateur, Lisa had a successful career in accounting and business management. But her life took an unexpected turn in late 1999 when she heard Giovanni’s Salerno Beach–a quirky Playa del Rey eatery known for its eclectic, Christmasy décor–was shuttering after 30 years.
“I got this funny call from a friend who said, ‘You know that crazy Christmas place by your house? They’re closing.’ Turns out, Giovanni wasn’t doing well health-wise and wanted to go back to Italy. I had been a regular there for takeout and Giovanni always reminded me of my grandfather. I couldn’t bear the thought of it disappearing,” she says.
With a mix of nostalgia, curiosity, and the hope to honor her Italian roots, Lisa reached out to the owner. In a matter of days she struck a deal to take over the restaurant, with the details handwritten on the back of a paper placemat. On January 2, 2000, Lisa officially reopened the doors as Cantalini’s Salerno Beach, renaming it after her grandmother. She kept the iconic neon sign and historic charm, but slowly refurbished the space with her own style.
Transforming the restaurant into her own was both a challenge and a labor of love.
“I knew nothing about the restaurant industry,” Lisa says. “But I approached it like hosting a big family dinner. How hard could it be?”
Over time, she learned the business of running a kitchen while respecting the restaurant’s deep roots.
“One piece of advice I got was not to try to be Giovanni, but to honor what people loved about the place while making it my own. My intention at the beginning was to make sure that we were a restaurant for all things. I wanted to be the date night place, the family place, the place that you could gather for events,” she says.
The first thing she knew she needed to add to the menu was pizza.
“Giovanni hated pizza! And he didn’t really have any seafood,” she says.
Luckily, Lisa was able to bring in a chef from Tutto Bene in Malibu, who brought in seafood pescatore, linguini with clams and the crab cannelloni.
“All that stuff came from that guy, and I was very fortunate to train with him. It probably took me seven years to really make the restaurant mine,” she says.
A big part of that was decluttering.
“Every year, Monday by Monday, because we were closed, I would take a little bit of the Christmas decorations and chianti bottles out of the ceiling. Finally, we were able to introduce a new environment,” she says.
Beyond ensuring the food was the highest quality and the menu was full of crowd pleasers, it’s really the patrons who have made the restaurant a community hub.
“People walk in the door to this day and go, ‘We had our first date in that booth 35 years ago,’ or ‘My parents, who are gone now, had their wedding rehearsal dinner in here.’ It’s crazy to me the history in this place. And I do consider it a historical landmark. I do feel like it’s the center of town, that has been in people’s lives all these generations,” she says.
Lisa’s niece Emily also works at the restaurant and often talks about the kids that come in with their parents to look at LMU and then come back four years later for a celebratory meal when they graduate.
“In 25 years, I have seen every stage of life from marriages to births to funerals, and I am now seeing the children I saw in strollers having their own kids…It’s a whole span. I think that’s my favorite part about the restaurant being 25 years old,” she says with a smile.
Beyond feeding the community she loves, Lisa’s commitment to Playa del Rey doesn’t stop at the table. An advocate for community service, she’s an active member of the Playa Venice Sunrise Rotary Club, which she is co-leading this year. By delivering meals to local seniors, donating her services to support mental health and sponsoring various community groups and events, Lisa ensures Cantalini’s remains a valuable part of the neighborhood.
“It’s important to me to give back,” Lisa says. “This community has supported us through thick and thin, and I want to do the same.”
And the community gives back to Lisa, too. During the pandemic, when the restaurant faced big challenges and was forced to be take-out only, Lisa was surprised by the outpouring of support from locals and even former residents.
“I received letters and donations from people across the country,” Lisa says. “They wanted to make sure we and our staff were okay. That kind of support is what community is all about.”
She’s also received accolades from groups like the Friends of Ballona Wetlands and the Mar Vista Family Center for her generosity and volunteerism.
The restaurant officially celebrated its 25th anniversary on January 2 with champagne for its guests and discounts for diners.
“It was our way of saying thank you for 25 amazing years,” Lisa says.
Looking to the future, Lisa remains hopeful, yet realistic, about the challenges ahead. Rising costs and an unpredictable economic landscape weigh heavily on her mind.
“We want to remain a place where families can gather without breaking the bank,” Lisa shares. “But finding that balance is a puzzle we’re still working on.”
Despite the uncertainties, Lisa’s love for Playa del Rey and her dedication to its residents keeps her going.
“This community is everything to me,” she says. “I’ve seen the marriages, births, and the milestones of so many families here. It’s humbling to be part of their stories.”
Cantalini’s is located at 193 Culver Blvd. in Playa del Rey. Follow them on IG @cantalinis.
Story by Shanee Edwards. Pictures by Zsuzsi Steiner.
